Iowa and Illinois - Part II, Nauvoo: the City Beautiful

After spending the morning at Carthage, we ate a quick lunch and headed out for Nauvoo. The drive was rather short and the farms and flat landscape reminded us of home. As you approach Nauvoo from the Carthage, the final few miles are along the highway running parallel with the Mississippi. When you enter Nauvoo, the river bends away to the west and you find Old Nauvoo on the left between you and the river, with newer Nauvoo up on the crested hill. The restored buildings all have that characteristic red-brick look so common for that area.

Joseph Smith's Red Brick Store

From what we were able to see, just over half of the Nauvoo restored buildings are owned and operated by the LDS Church, and the rest by the Community of Christ Church (formerly the RLDS). Among those manged by the CCC is Joseph's Red Brick Store (where you can buy a large assortment of Nauvoo souveniers), his white Mansion House just up the street, and the graves of Joseph, Emma and Hyrum. Along with these graves are many various Smith Family members, including Joseph Sr. and Lucy Mack Smith. While you can walk the grounds on this side quite freely, to enter the structures managed by the CCC, there is a tour fee. We didn't pay the fee.

The Grave of Joseph, Emma and Hyrum

On the side managed by the LDS Church, are a large assortment of activities for kids, each managed by a senior missionary. We participated in an ox-cart ride, visited the blacksmith shop (and each received a nail-ring, otherwise known as a prairie diamond), saw how the red bricks were made, and saw the printshop of the Times and Seasons. Each of the senior missionaries seemed to be having the time of their lives. I leaned over to Becky and said, "We have got to serve a mission here!"

Brigham Young's Home

One of the best places to visit were Brigham Young's home, which had some of the original dishes discovered during renovation and restoration of the building. The missionaries taught us how one of the previous senior missionaries had been able to mend many of the dishes, seal the cracks, refinish them, and they were almost as good as new. In Brigham Young's home were an assortment of replications of his belongings, but most impressive to me was the rocking chair that actually belonged to him. It was really wonderful to think that he had actually sat in that chair. I leaned over to Becky and said, "We have got to serve a mission here!"

We also visited the home of Jonathan Browning, founder of Browning Rifles. Jonathan Browning was an early member of the church and his skills of rifle making were passed to his children and their company is one of the most influential in the history of firearms. The boys and I really enjoyed that.

Perhaps one of the most moving things is the "Trail of Hope." This is approximately a mile of Parley Street in Nauvoo that ends at the banks of the Mississippi. This was the road used by the Saints in their escape from Nauvoo and the Illinois persecution in the dead of winter, 1846. Through the entire length of the street, markers are posted at regular intervals with mournful, inspirational, and faithful quotes from pioneers who walked that road. It was said that wagons lined the entire road for days as they all took turns crossing river. I leaned over to Becky and said, "We have got to serve a mission here!"


At the end of the street, right near the riverbank, stands a statue of Joseph showing Brigham Young a map and pointing across the river to the west, representing his instructions to take the Saints to the Rocky Mountains. This signifies the official start of the famous Mormon Trail that runs, incidentally, right through Grand Island. In a small monument nearby, names of Mormon Pioneers line the walls.

One of our favorite activities was the wagon ride tour that took us through most of Old Nauvoo and gave us a chance to see everything quickly, and gave us and idea what we wanted to come back and see on foot. Matthew, however, is deathly afraid of rides. Wagons, ox-carts, Lagoon rides, everything. It was all we could do to keep him from leaping right off the side.



At the main visitor's center, the Church has constructed a "Moment to Women." Recognizing the formation of the Relief Society, the oldest and largest women's organization in the world, this momument has a large collection of statues of women, mothers, mothers with children, and so on. We visited it at sunset and found the setting perfect for a few photographs. Jared, always most interested in fairness and equality, kept asking where the "Monument to Men" was to be found.... Don't worry, we set him straight...



Best of all was the Nauvoo Temple, found at the western edge of the crested hill overlooking Old Nauvoo and the Mississippi. Restored on the original site, the Temple sits at the head of the new village perched behind the temple on the crest. It was inspirational to think that a structure like this was built by the Saints in their poverty, using one day in 10 to labor on the temple, sacrificing personal time, belongings, and interests to provide for temple blessings.


I can't imagine how the Saints felt, as they walked down Parley Street to the riverbank, leaving this wonderful temple behind them. What faith, sacrifice and endurance it took just to leave, let alone survive the trip to Winter Quarters, through Nebraska, the high plains of Wyoming and finally into the Salt Lake Valley. I leaned to Becky and said, "We have got to serve a mission here!"

Come, come, ye saints, no toil nor labor fear;
But with joy wend your way.
Though hard to you this journey may appear,
Grace shall be as your day.
Tis better far for us to strive our useless cares from us to drive;
Do this, and joy your hearts will swell -
All is well! All is well!

Why should we mourn or think our lot is hard?
'Tis not so; all is right.
Why we think to earn a great reward if we now shun the fight?
Gird up your loins; fresh courage take.
Our God will never us forsake;
And soon we'll have this tale to tell-
All is well! All is well!

We'll find the place which God for us prepared,
Far away, in the West,
Where none shall come to hurt or make afraid;
There the saints, will be blessed.
We'll make the air, with music ring, Shout praises to our god and king;
Above the rest these words we'll tell -
All is well! All is well!

And should we die before our journey's through,
Happy day! All is well!
We then are free from toil and sorrow, too;
With the just we shall dwell!
But if our lives are spared again to see the Saints their rest obtain,
Oh, how we'll make this chorus swell-
All is well! All is well!

In the evening, we attended the "Rendezvous In Old Nauvoo," what we were told was a bit of a roadshow performed in the Cultural Hall (old Masons Lodge). As we took our seats, a senior missionary couple came forward and warmed up the crowd with jokes and some background of the town, to give you some background for the presentation. Then as the music started, no lie, every single senior missionary came running up the aisles singing and dancing up to the stage. As they bounded around, sang out heartily, and kicked their legs up the in air in some of the dance numbers, i leaned to Becky and said, "We are NEVER serving a mission here!"

My only regret was that we really needed two days in Nauvoo to see everything. I did decide, however, that this is not our last time there. With family so close, we should make this almost an annual event. I also decided that our Scout camp this summer is in Nauvoo and we will spend three days in Nauvoo and Carthage and perhaps even some baptisms at the temple. Perhaps not the most traditional Scout Camp, but very inspirational.

Well, love to all. I hope that this has inspired you to come out to Nauvoo with us. It will change your lives, no question!